It took longer than expected, but my new site is now live and public: WatchOtaku.com
Not much there in the way of reviews yet, spent the time building the site, dictionary and layouts. Whew. Please take a look at the manifesto, poke around a bit and let me know what you think!
Posting has been slow of late, as I’ve been working hard on a new site for watch and timekeeping stuff only. I’ve been meaning to separate the two, but it took me a while to find software that’d do it the way I wanted. (Confluence + Adaptivist FYI)
It’s not ready yet, but coming soon I promise. Over time, I’ll be migrating the old content from fnord to the new site and posting redirects.
I’ve been working my way through a box of Luminox watches for WatchReport, and have also been enjoying what is probably the single coolest freebie I’ve gotten to date. It’s a Luminox-branded flashlight:
Looks like your basic Chinese LED flashlight, right?
But this one does tricks. First press lights up the white LEDs around the outside:
Basic white .5W LEDs
OK, that’s nice, but see what happens on the next press:
You get an inner ring of 5 purplish LEDs
It took me a while to figure this out; at first I thought it was just a slightly different color set. More efficient? Gimmick?
Then came the a-ha moment: It’s ultraviolet light! Perfect for seeing what dies flouresce, checking out the security printing on your license, and charging the lume on watches.
And it has yet One More Trick, too:
Yes, it's a red LED laser to boot.
A nice, bright laser light. Good for hundreds of meters at night. How’s that for an awesome flashlight?
A few months ago, my colleague James Stacy on WatchReport reviewed a new dive watch by a Canadian company, the Halios Holotype. I read the review and was intrigued, but then again I already have the fancier Seiko Marinemaster, which seemed to preclude another diver in the collection. However, as I did my research around the net, (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) I couldn’t believe the amount of unalloyed reviews and fans that I was seeing. Everyone seemed to like the Holotype, and that’s pretty darn rare. I had to see this for myself! I sent an email to Halios, who graciously agreed to send me a previously-loaned review watch, with the option to buy it if I liked it. They’ll be getting my money…
The $325 Halotype is the first watch from Halios, and is a Chinese-made unit with Japanese movement, designed in Vancouver BC. The Chinese sourcing is quite common among the new wave of startup dive watch brands, as the case, crystal, bracelet, hands and dial makers in China have ever-improving quality and unbeatable prices. For a movement, Halios sensibly went with the Miyota 8215, an absolute tank of a ticker with an impeccable reputation since its debut in 1977.
The Holotype also shares with other boutique brands the idea of small production runs. (The initial Holotype run is already sold out.) There were six variations: Yellow or black dial and brushed, bead-blasted or PVD black finish. James reviewed the yellow dial/PVD version, but that was sold out and Jason Lim of Halios sent me the yellow dial/brushed finish combo at my request. Ever since my regrettably-sold Seiko SKXA35 I’ve had a weakness for yellow dials, so I was quite excited to get another.
All of those are expanded and detailed below, but here’s a quick listing:
(I’ve not opened the Holotype, so this picture is borrowed from this page)
The Miyota 8215 movement is a 21 jewel automatic with handwind, H/M/S with quick set date, unidirectional automatic winding (note the arrow on the rotor to indicate winding direction), undecorated and unadjusted, non-hacking, rated to -20 to +40 seconds per day. 11.5 ligne in size (26mm) by 5.67mm thick, hand sizes are 100/165/17. 21,600 vph, 45 hour power reserve, Parashock jewel protection. It’s available from Otto Frei for $31 in single-piece quantities. The spec sheet (PDF) from Miyota is available here.
As noted, the movement is rated to -20/+40, and most Holotype reviews claim it does considerably better than that. After wearing it continuously for a couple of weeks, mine seems to be running fast, but I need to actually measure it to be sure. I’m also working on making a watch timer to measure performance, so I’ll update this section when I have data.
I suspect that the choice of the 8215 is one of the keys to making the Holotype affordable. It’s not as prestigious or as accurate as, say, an ETA 2824-2, but it’s bulletproof, built to run for decades with no maintenance, easy to repair and very widely used. Another testament to the design is from China, where Sea-Gull used the 8200 series as the base for their successful line of movements. (Though they upgraded the winding to bidirectional by copying the Seiko Magic Lever system. Interestingly, the Miyota PDF claims that the unidirectional winding is more efficient given the energy distribution from wrist movements.) This review of another dive watch says that the Miyota 821A is “the new, nicely decorated version of the very dependable 8215″ though I’ve not found any corroboration of this elsewhere.
The 8200 series are also notably used in the Citizen NY divers as well as the thousand-dollar Autozilla. The 8215 Wikipedia page also notes use by Camel, Dugena, Festina, Jacques Lemans and Invicta.
In use, the movement winds fairly smoothly, but the 6mm crown feels too large for the thin winding stem. You can feel it flex as you use it, and caution is definitely warranted to avoid damage. Owners of Swiss watches may be at first surprised that the 8200 series lack a screwdown position, so it continues to wind as you screw down the crown, which has a different feel than the ETA-style movements. Crown threads are easy to engage, with about three turns for full engagement.
I am missing the hack seconds function, as determining accuracy and accurate setting are both more difficult without it.
The case of the Holotype is machined from a block of stainless steel, in a vertical-sided design that defies shirt cuffs and understatement. The squared-off hooded lugs shown above reduce the length of the watch, which makes it wearable to people with smaller wrists. You can also see the crown recess, drilled lugs, screwed links and springbars as well. Note the triple-crescent Halios logo on the crown, quite nice.
The screwdown caseback has an etched center section, serial number and basic information:
Here, you can see that the sides are a bit concave, not sure if that’s on purpose or a milling imperfection:
That picture also shows the arched case above the hooded lugs, an unusual design touch. As you’d expect from it’s slab-sided profile, the Holotype tends to not slide easily under long sleeves.
The bezel is slightly tapered and sits perhaps 0.5mm above the flat sapphire crystal. Minute markers are etched or engraved and nicely filled with black paint. A closeup shows the construction and a few rough edges:
Here’s a shot of the dial and bezel for perspective. Note the unavoidable reflection from the uncoated sapphire crystal:
The dial itself is an orangeish yellow, flat finish, with painted Seiko Lumibrite on the markers. A closeup shows some minor alignment issues with lume and ink:
As noted above, the brandname and model name are quite understated.
The bezel is quite wonderful to use – the bezel triangle is a solid block of lume, which is very bright at night. The 120-click bezel action feels like that of a bank vault, solid and precise. The rough edges of the etched numerals are only visible at close inspection, while the black-on-steel color is quite readable at a glance. As with all deep-dial watches, parallax between the bezel and dial makes accurate elapsed time readings tricky to get right if you want to read at one-minute or better accuracy. The bezel notches are pretty grippy, though I have to apply a bit more force when it’s wet; still quite usable with bare fingers or gloves.
The black-on-yellow hand/dial combination provides good contrast and readability in almost all lighting, though the orange minute hand is a bit less contrasty and thus less visible than I’d like. Personally, I’d prefer black for it as well, but even so it’s very readable once you get used to it. Visibility at night is excellent, with lume brightness and longevity a close second to Seiko divers.
This picture shows the six-sided link shape, unusually thick links and compact clasp, as well as the screwed links and bars. The clasp is signed and has one micro adjustment along with a wetsuit extension:
Clasp with pushbutton release and fliplock:
From the outside, the faceting and oyster-style proportions remind me of tank treads. It’s a cool look.
This massive and solid bracelet is an excellent match for the weight of the watch itself, and is well-matched in build quality and visual design. The screwed links are unheard of at this price, and with the included tool make sizing the bracelet something you can easily do yourself at home; bravo! I find it to be comfortable enough that I’ve had no desire to fit the included silicone strap yet, even in 90 degree weather.
On the minor-negative side, the link profile between links is triangular, so combined with the close spacing it can sometimes pull a hair. Rare but worth noting. Generally extremely comfortable.
Build quality on the bracelet is first rate; no rattles, squeeks or ill-fitting bits to be found. It may well be the most impressive part of the whole watch.
Halios made the smart decision to ship the Holotype in a reusable travel case instead of the usual presentation box that you immediately stick on a shelf:
In the hinged section, a screw/pin tool and deployant-clasp silicone band:
I immediately used the case when packing for my vacation, and am very pleased with it. A very thoughtful touch, as was the inclusion of silicone strap and required tool. They also have included (not pictured) two spare links and linkages for the bracelet.
I’ve tried to separate objective facts from opinions in this and other reviews, so this section is the latter.
It’s hard to explain the appeal rationally, given the objective facts, but somehow the gestalt of design and build is compelling as hell. This is just an awesome watch, and even though I’ve others with me it’s been my sole wearer for weeks now. The cheerful yellow face, hefty weight on the wrist and gorgeous bracelet add up to a unique watch that’s superb to wear. As you can see from the first picture, it even works with a dress shirt if you’re willing to be bold.
It’s eminently practical as a dive watch or daily wearer, built as it is of first-rate materials. Stainless and sapphire are what I prefer to see, as its almost impossible to scratch the crystal. The brushed finish will ding up a bit, but to me that shows honest use and adds character. (You should see my Marinemaster after three years!)
The Halios blog is already starting to talk about the successor “BlueRing” and I can’t wait to see one in person.
Many thanks to Jason Lim of Halios for the opportunity to review and purchase this watch. At $325 it’s a superb value, period. I’m going to walk the walk and buy this one myself.
It’s a keeper for sure. Highly recommended.
I got an indignant comment on my Stowa post from a Panerai fan:
I don’t get the Panerai link. Sure, it is based on the 6498, but so heavily modified that is stands on its own. This Stowa is not modified at all, so it’s no comparison.
Panerai watches are technical pieces of art. Stowa’s are nice watches, but works of art? Hardly.
Since this particular comment got under my skin, here’s a bit of a stolen- photograph essay to disagree. (Each picture is a link to the page where I found it.) To refresh, here’s the version from Stowa – decorated, Geneva stripes, swans-neck regulator:
Next up, the Panerai PAM36:
Yep, dead stock. They even left the screw notches unblued and the less-expensive index regulator. All that’s done is the CNC-engraved logo text on the plates and bridges. Otherwise a dead-stock 6497, and not even an upgraded one at that. Considering that this watch goes for a ton of money, I’m unimpressed. (Check this one out – used PAM36, only thirty three thousand dollars!)
Now, it should be noted that Panerai used to use Rolex movements, in particular the Cortebert as well as the Angelus 240. Interestingly, David Worland notes that the Cortebert was a $3 movement! In some of their 6497/8 models, they’ve redesigned the bridges and plates to resemble the Cortebert movement. Here’s a pic of the Cortebert next to the modified 6497:
(Rolex on the left)
If you aren’t a hardcore watch geek, those look pretty similar, eh? And if nothing else, at least Panerai is trying here to look like they have their own movements. (Interestingly, the Rolex has a plain index regulator, and the 6498 has a swans-neck.)
For a better example of what you can do to transform the 6498, consider the Omega 2201, as seen in the Railmaster XL handwind:
Now that’s nicely done. New plates and bridges, vertical stripes, much harder to tell that it’s a 6498.
For an even more extreme transformation, Dirk Dornblueth replaces the plates and bridges with a traditional German three-quarter plate:
Yep, complete with swans-neck, real blued screws and chaton-set jewels. Gorgeous!
That concludes today’s rant. I should note that that Panerai has since created some movements fully in-house – my point is that some of their watches are just overpriced (IMHO) base Unitas movements. Not all, just some. Knowledge is power, folks.
Once again, I am considering the purchase of an expensive watch, and once again I am taking refuge in obsessive research. This page documents what I’ve learned, so that others can be amused at my expense and perhaps find it useful. As with the Marinemaster, I don’t have one so all pictures are borrowed as noted. Links and references are at the bottom.
It’s the Stowa Marine Original Limited Edition II, just announced. 120 pieces total, 80 to the USA. Here’s the official picture:
This is a variant on the Marine Original Black:
The limited edition is differentiated by having
The plain version is (as of 6/09, matte finish and deployant buckle) 915 Euros or $1267. The LE version is $1460, or $193 more. For that you’re basically getting a nicer dial as far as I can tell.
Commenter Henry corrects me to note that the delta is closer to $400 – I was reading the EC price, when in fact Americans pay the lower non-EC cost. Oops.
The case is matte-finished 316L stainless steel, 42mm by 10.8mm. Signed crown, waterproof to 50 meters, screwed caseback with sapphire display window and domed sapphire crystal. Not sure if the crystal is anti-reflective or not; I suspect not.
(That’s a picture of the regular edition with polished case)
(Ditto)
The movement is a Unitas 6498-1, handwind mechanical, 16.5 ligne, 17 jewels, 18000vph, appx 48 hour power reserve. Blued screws, Geneva stripes (Cotes du Geneve), screw balance. ETA sells movements in five different grades; I would guess this to be Elabore or Top grade (3 or 4), and Stowa adds a nice swans-neck fine regulator too:
Here’s a comparison from Stowa of the changes to the LE dial:
and here’s their picture of the non-LE again:
This watch really reached out and grabbed me. I’ve been looking for a 6498-based watch for a year or two now, as I quite like the look and the movement. You can read more in the links, but the Unitas movements started out life as pocketwatch movements and have taken on immense popularity in the era of larger wristwatches. They’re reliable, easy to repair and nicely designed. In the higher grades, they keep excellent time and are a more reliable alternative to a vintage handwind. I love the subseconds-at-six design, especially when paired with upright Arabic numerals and vintage hands. Retro, yet functional and uncluttered. It’s a coherent and clean design, which for me is very high praise.
I’ve also thought about the first limited edition, which was in many ways even nicer – white enamel dial with a red ‘12′. It sold out in days, and is selling for more than list price. So maybe the LE2 will retain value better as well, but in watches you should never count on making money. I always assume I’ll pay depreciation costs. The blue-on-white version is quite pretty though:
It’d be nice if there was lume for nighttime viewing, but I’ll accept its lack as a design decision.
You can certainly spend a lot more on a 6498-based watch (e.g. Panerai); this is actually a fair market price if not cheap. Sigh.
I spent some time considering the Alpha version with cloned Chinese movement, but I’d rather have a few nice watches and am thus in the middle of an Ebay selloff to fund the Stowa. Look for a review in October or so when it’s supposed to ship. I’ve reserved serial number thirteen!
When I last wrote about my Gyromatic saga, it had mechanical problems and I’d been quoted a ludicrous repair estimate locally. I put it out of sight for a couple months and then contacted Jose Sotto, from whom I’d bought a vintage Seiko and had excellent results when he had to fix it post-sale. He was willing to try fixing it, and also to look for a replacement for the missing dial logo.
Here’s what the GP looked like when I sent it to him:
And here it is today:
The second hand still isn’t perfect due to gear wear, and the redial font is still wrong, but now I have a correct logo and it runs much, much better. This picture is on an 18mm deployant calfskin from the recent Christopher Ward sale.
On a related note, I have to confess that the next pictures show a rather odd strap. I splurged (25 pounds UK!) on an alligator strap. They usually run hundreds of dollars each, and even CW usually charges 65UK, so for 50 or so USD I wanted to get one. See what you think of the combo:
The strap is lovely, shinier than the leather I’m used to and still bending itself to fit my wrist.
The logo doesn’t match the watch, but I rather doubt anyone else will notice except me. To be honest, it’s quite hard to tell the difference between this real gator and an imitation one I bought at the same time, so I’m not sure what the fuss is. Chris suggests that perhaps gator wears better.
It’s interesting to wear this watch. You can’t read it at night, its a bit smaller and much thinner than contemporary styles, and it’s silver-on-silver is nicely understated. Even the dial curvature is less obvious than a pie pan dial:
Even though I paid too much, this is one of those watches that makes me happy to wear it.
For some reason, I remembered the “I am Legend” Will Smith zombie flick this morning as I rode the shuttle bus to work. One of the plot elements is, of course, the importance of being off the street before sunset. Allow me to suggest, should Zombies Attack, wearing one of these:
(My Yes Inca)
Normally used by photographers and such, it has an alarm that sounds 15 minutes before sunrise and sunset. Being a Yes watch, it knows how those times change as the seasons change, so you’ll never be caught on the street when the zombies emerge.
You’re welcome.
Decent grade watches often have an overlapping circular decoration on the plates and bridges. Originally devised to catch dust, it’s now machine-applied for the most part and quite decorative. Here’s a picture from my C5 Malvern:
It’s called perlage, or more correctly L’oeil de perdrix (F.) literally translates in English as “partridge eye.”
Apparently, it has other applications too:
Yep, same pattern, applied to concrete in the parking garage. I’d guess it’s more for traction here.
There’s beauty everywhere.
Courtesy of this SCWF thread and this review, the Seagull M177s automatic:
Purty, eh? Movement is the Sea-Gull ST16, a copy of the ETA 2824-2. Hacking, handwinding, and machine finished. To borrow a picture from this review:
Looks similar in finish to my last Alpha, but reviews are quite positive. I’m really hoping that it’s of higher quality and will serve as a better replacement for the failed G-P experiment.
The dial and font really look to me like classic JLC. Here’s an image borrowed from this page:
This is funded from WatchReport and selling Cisco on eBay, so with a smidge of luck it won’t irritate the lovely-and-talented Chris. 
I’ll post a review after I get it.
Update: $139 shipped, including a 2-year warranty.
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